Wednesday, 25 April 2012

here's rocco


It felt like Slovenian fashion forgot all about the girl, enviously young, long-legged, with nothing to do but stop traffic with her adorable assemble. Yes, spoiled and fun, we are talking about fashion, but still very well behaved. Ivan Rocco, part of the Young@Squat collective, brought her back, even better, invented her. That is probably why his FW12 collection got so much attention, everyone wanted to take that girl out, it's been long overdue. What attracted me was the combination of Brazilian hippy vibe that is quite summery, and the puffy jacket, reminiscent of a typical look of everyone growing up in Yugoslavia. How hot and how cold of her. Can't wait to see this Ivan Rocco girl growing up (see the jackets on the runway and, yes, on girls, here and here). 

Če ti je ime Ivan Rocco, najbrž moraš početi kaj takšnega, zaradi česar bodo ljudje izgovarjali tvoje ime z občudovanjem. Dobro bi ga bilo videti na etiketi. V Squatu smo njegovo retro kolekcijo z obešalnikov jemale kar štiri naenkrat, bundic z lakastimi ovratniki pač ne srečaš kar tako.

Se nadaljuje ...

Sunday, 22 April 2012

the right time for next season

After Philips fashion week FW12 I had to do a fashion detox, make two giant steps back and rethink all that we have seen strolling down the catwalk. The blinding lights and the loud music can sometimes make things a) appear much more covetable than they really are or b) less powerful because they lack that first impression presence. Some things are made for showing (off) others for wearing (in). That is why I accepted the invitation to see some of the pieces designed by Natasa Persuh and Zoran Garevski up close. Shown on the first three photos are coats by Natasa Persuh, the strongest element in the collection. 'I could see you in that blue one,' said R* (click here to see it on the runway) and how right he was, it is soft and strict at the same time, much like the first impression I wanna give to people. It is just the right kind of blue that doesn't make you look pale in winter and gives a bit of warmth to the complexion. The second one (on the runway) is actually a black jacket and a blue coat in one, a perfect manly piece that you can throw over anything and look put together and sober (even over a one-too-many cocktail dress). The collection, surprisingly, didn't make a statement out of recycled fur but a tool. The subtle patchwork was repeated on the dresses. Persuh has already played with the idea of fur for the Maison Margiela exhibition but this time made it real. On the runway the black patent leather belt looked like a strip of industrial tape, very MMM like. And than there is the Zoran Garevski man's double-breasted jacket that I lovingly call The Croco, which looks great on a tomboy. I was surprised how raw it looks in person, not an uptight jacket at all, it would even survive a bus ride. On Friday night I was already missing the blue coat in my wardrobe.

Kako super, da lahko pri nas smuknem v sample size številko, no, ja, vsaj pri jaknah in plaščih (sem poskusila tudi pri londonskih, a je bila edina stvar, ki sem jo spravila nase, brezrokavnik). Po vsem trudu, ki so ga oblikovalci vložili v svoje delo, je prav, da ga spoznamo še na obešalniku, ga pobožamo, položimo na ramena, vržemo na roko, se raznežimo ob podlogi in spregledanem detajlu. Takole razstavljeni, brez teles, ki bi jih podpirala, so na nek čuden način še bolj privlačni: lepi in prazni. Po enkratni aferi z žarometi ne smejo biti že has-beens, zvezdniško življenje se za njih šele začenja.

Se nadaljuje ...

Sunday, 1 April 2012

spring-summer 1998 to fall-winter 2012





VODEB SS '98, clothes: Uroš Belantič for Vodeb, photographer: Tomaž Gregorič, model: Romana Lilič
Tomorrow starts the Ljubljana FW12 fashion week and we are kicking it off with a round table hosted by me about Slovenian fashion heritage and its influences. I believe that some great things were happening in Slovenian fashion just a few years ago (in fashion terms: ages ago) from collaborations to even a simple thing like a great lookbook. So, yeah, maybe we will be a bit nostalgic but all in the name of putting fall winter 2012 in perspective.

Brskanje po arhivih je pri nas nemogoča naloga, meni pa modni spomin ne seže nazaj do 1998, sicer vem, da sem takrat nosila pižamo, vendar nimam pojma, kaj se je dogajalo v bolj posvečenih krogih. Zakaj ne morem pogooglati kolekcije Zorana Garevskega s konca devetdesetih? Zato sem skenirala nekaj 'vintidž' katalogov, ki jih bomo zavrteli na okrogli mizi. Vabljeni torej, da iz (maminih?) omar stauhate best of devetdesetih, narejenih v Sloveniji, in jutri ob 17h pridete v Kino Šiška. O modni dediščini in slovenskem modnem oblikovanju kot blagovni znamki se bom pogovarjala z Marto Vodeb, Natašo Peršuh, Sanjo Grcić, Uršo Drofenik, Olgo Košico, Zoranom Garevskim, Valterjem Kobalom (Oktober) in Mariel Reed (Not Just A Label). Veliko vprašanje: ali bomo vsi oblečeni v črno?

PST: Tale lookbook Vodeb je bil posnet v piceriji Triglav, restavraciji Sole in Resljevem Hramu. Moda je v pajzlih vselej videti dobro.