Wednesday, 5 September 2012

wood and flowers

pics by DCMU, Wood Wood SS13
My heart turned into wood wood after seeing their SS13 show. It was an answer to what happens when a girl in sneakers grows up. She becomes a woman that still loves the pavement under her feet but isn't afraid to wear an organza flower top while she's doing it. 

Ko je Virginia Woolf napisala prvo poved romana Gospa Dalloway, je najbrž vstala od mize in pobegnila na dolg sprehod. Kako bi sploh lahko kaj dodala? "Gospa Dalloway je rekla, da bo rože kupila sama." Vsi cvetlični potiski od takrat naprej so le še hommage tej najbolj girl power izjavi, naj se tega zavedajo ali ne. Med rožastim in ženskami je zavezništvo, ki nas obvezuje, da ga kupujemo same. Morda pa je Woolfova odpeketala po šopek perunik ali cvetličnega graha.  

Sunday, 26 August 2012

i want to shine like a street light








– Oh, It's too easy, we're already bored. But we leave every party the last, just like before. We're so young in old places, and we have nothing but our young faces. And the world is sick, sick and closed since hundreds of years. (...) Oh, It's so easy in the night. It takes a while for our eyes to adjust to the light. We're so young in the city, our bodies are young and pretty and the world is old, old and freezing cold. (Molly Nilsson)

Stine Goya show was a blast, circus chic at its best with a soundtrack I just can't get out of my body. I am listening to Molly Nilsson, while my hubby listens to John Maus.

Včasih se zgodi, res samo včasih, da ti sredi šova trza celo telo. Mar mi je za pižamice Stine Goya, kar me je pripravilo do hočem! faze, pa je bila glasbena podlaga: Molly Nilsson Whiskey Sour in We're Never Coming Home plus Destiny's Child Say My Name (Cyril Hahn Remix).

Saturday, 18 August 2012

the bluest of black

photo by 8 and 2, wearing a shirt by Natasa Persuh
Thanks, Ms Fensišmensi for sending me the link to Mr Fujiwara photo of me. If I am not mistaken, it was taken after the Paul Smith AW12 show. Of course I went through his blog 8 and 2 yesterday, you should too. The colors are so alive you feel like you're watching some rare animals in a park, an impressive client list too.

Ne tako mala modra srajca Natasa Persuh je šla z mano točno pol leta kasneje v Kopenhagen. Zopet se je skrivala pod plaščem/trenčem. Ah, ni ji hudega, sedaj je bila že na treh tednih mode: londonskem, kopenhagenskem in ljubljanskem. Samo še na pivo jo moram peljati.

Monday, 13 August 2012

serenity now

At the Designers Remix SS13 show I couldn't get my eyes away from the lady in the front row, later I found out she is the legendary danish fashion journalist Didder Rønlund. I saw her the previous night at the Henrik Vibskov show, too. It was so packed and loud, but she was wearing this serene smile of a connoisseur, feeling right at home. She is 86. Oh, the stories and tips (and Chanels) she could share! 

V avli Kraljevega gledališča nisem pričakovala njenih z osami popikanih ustnic, potem pa kar naenkrat, o, glej, Lindsey Wixson. Danke so tako visokorasle, leponoge in lepoglave, da sem do Lindsey začutila le mini girl crush, ali pa je bila za to kriva njena Designers Remix toaleta.

Saturday, 11 August 2012

lady in pink

I have a By Malene Birger dress that is a few years old but still my favorite black summer dress. It is the definition of breezy elegance so I can wear it on any given day. Of course I use a tiny safety pin to keep the cleavage in place and give it a bit of an I-don't-care feel about it. In Copenhagen I was a little overwhelmed by the number of power women that dress up in MB, so classy, so conservative, but with a pink elephant chair in the room. 

48 ur v Kopenhagnu zveni kot slab Bond (v katerem bi najbrž igral Timothy Dalton, ki je, mimogrede, zame pravi James), a je v resnici soliden scenarij za razburkati teden. Če k temu prišteješ še teden mode in skok v drugi letni čas, tam je čisto prava jesen, saj so še Danke zagrabile plašče, je vse skupaj kot iz filma. Tokrat sem s sabo spakirala fotič. Začnimo ga fensi z By Malene Birger, končali pa ga bomo trashy.

Thursday, 26 July 2012

the summer of rocco




photo by fixinchevys for DCMU, Ivan Rocco shirt, old American Apparel shorts and Cdg wallet
Slovenian designer Ivan Rocco knows how to scream summer! into a shirt. A splash of neon, crystal print and a bit of good-old transparency plus a generous cut. I believe my whole wardrobe was trembling when I  brought home all the Rocco shirts from the capsule collection to prepare for the ELLE shoot. Everything else that was on the hangers was lacking the primal fun element or, as some might say, lust for nightlife. The shirt is not hiding its potential to make a long night out of the slightest opportunity, however I can't help imagining it in an office, teamed with a sharp pencil skirt, with - sorry, guys - no time for after work drinks.

Ko sem serijo srajc Ivan Rocco potegnila na plan, sem najprej nekaj časa strmela vanje, še posebej v ojačane rokave, jih previdno vrtela na obešalniku, mimogrede, vrtijo se odlično, in na koncu poražena zavzdihnila. Videti so bile, kot da bi Ivan zgornje dele šuškavih trenirk pretopil v delikatne srajčke. S svojo lepa-dekleta-ljubijo-barabe držo so mi nemudoma napihnile del srca.

Wednesday, 13 June 2012

the power trousers


Céline, Peter Movrin, Stella McCartney
Oh my, do this trousers mean business or what? They are the strongest thing out there, making everything else, even my Margiela coat, look kinda blunt. Get out of here spiky shoulders and come to mama razor sharp trousers! Of course there is still one thing I have to get my mind around to - how are you supposed to walk in them? I am shooting blanks here, but probably stilettos are a must. Combine pointy pumps with extra extra long trousers and it starts to sound painful. It will take a few months weeks to master the moves. Oh, who am I kidding. How would it look with sneakers instead? 

Fotko Peter Movrin hlač, predstavljenih na Radarju, sem nemudoma shranila v telefon, saj so videti tako zelo jaz 2013. Ostra, resna, z nemejebat hojo. Hej, do 2013 imam še šest mesecev, da vse to postanem. Družba Célininih in Stellinih za Resort, ki so preplavila splet šele v teh dneh, jim prav lepo pristoji.

Sunday, 10 June 2012

learning to fly, but I ain't got wings

photos by Peter Giodani, styling Petra Windschnurer from ELLE, clothes by Peter Movrin, Sanija Reja Aske, Jana Zornik and Tjaša Žgalin 
A spread from Wings magazine that accompanied the graduation show of the Department of textile and clothing at the University of Ljubljana. It was an honor to write a feature for it! 

Ko sem Scotta Schumana aka Sartorialista nekega vročega avgustovskega večera leta 2009 po urah in urah prestavljanja končno dobila na telefon, ravno je izdal knjigo in trajalo je tedne, da sva z njegovo asistentko uskladili datume, sem pričakovala galantne odgovore, poblisk nasmeška in rob pločnika, na kratko, njegov blog v parih stavkih. Seveda sem dobila prav to, a kar mi še danes ne gre iz modne betice – in verjemite mi, od takrat sem slišala mnogo sočnih enovrstičnic –, je njegov odgovor na vprašanje, zakaj bi si želel intervjuvati prav Driesa Van Notna in Giorgia Armanija, kot je omenil v nekem drugem pogovoru. Ne spomnim se, kako sva končala pri pohištvu in tem, zakaj točno veš, kakšno notranjo opremo bo imel Armani, in si zlahka predstavljaš, kakšno bi imel Dries, če bi se je lotil. »Večji univerzum ko ustvarimo, več ljudi moramo prepričati, da sodelujejo v njem. Dries van Noten in Giorgio Armani nista le odlična oblikovalca, temveč predvsem odlična komunikatorja.« Isto bi lahko rekli za Schumana ter vse ostale težkokategornike v modi ali, bolje, v pop kulturi. Omenjena velika komunikatorja si med sabo ne bi mogla biti bolj različna; eden je megabrend s toliko podbrendi, da smo jim nekje vmes nehali slediti, drugi je nišen in cepljen proti megalomanskosti, na kraj pameti mu ne pade, da bi med dve ženski in dve moški kolekciji stisnil še resort in pre-fall. 
Moja družina je črni logo Giorgio Armani čefurjem, kot smo mi, v krasnem novem kapitalizmu tiskala na sive majice iz Hrvaške, preden smo sploh vedeli, da je Armani tudi človek in ne zgolj italijansko ime s parfuma ali očal, kar sta ekvivalenta paštete v modnem svetu. Vanj se je oblačil tako Ameriški psiho, ki je na obleki tu in tam pustil kakšen sumljivi madež, kot Ameriški žigolo, ki je skoraj trideset let, preden so nas preplavili modni videi in je v žensko besedišče zlezla zveza 'shoe porn', postregel z introm v garderobo Giorgio Armani, ob katerem vsakogar, ne glede na modno usmerjenost, zaščemi po vsaj eni noči z vsaj enim Armanijevim kosom. Medtem Dries van Noten kot nekakšen belgijski psiho živi v Antwerpnu ter rad vrtička, kar se opazi v cvetličnih potiskih in impresivni barvni lestvici, svoje blagovne znamke ne oglašuje, ne vidi posebnega smisla v širitvi, prav tako ne v viku in kriku s svojimi oblačili ali izjavami, še huje, nima se za konceptualista, kar je glede na to, da je bil del Antwerpskih šest, povezanih z velikimi temami, kot je dekonstrukcija, kar drzna izjava. In vendarle nam je točno jasno, kdaj imamo opravka z njegovim podpisom ali srečno najdbo na Yooxu. 
Blagovna znamka DVN ima trmasto vizijo, njegova ženska je tako natančno definirana, da jo prepoznaš isti hip, ko vstopi v prostor, pa naj bo oblečena v kolekcijo izpred petih sezon ali iz tiste, ki šele prihaja; najbrž bi lahko bila tudi gola. Vem, 'njegova ženska' zveni sila trapasto. Prebrala sem toliko piarjev in pri nemalokaterem tudi sodelovala, da mi je jasno, kako so prišli do opisov, ki jih nato oblikovalci povedo tako mojstrsko, kot da so šele oni ustvarili žensko in jo ujeli v stekleničko, a vseeno me ob bolj ali manj klišejskih besednih zvezah vselej preplavi rdečica in se mi zamajejo kolena. Vse te njihove ženske (pa tudi žigoli) so del mene, so jaz na najboljši dan, so jaz z eno nulo več, boljšo službo, besnim pedigrejem itn. Če mi garderoba za power ženske potem ne pristaja in sem v roza obleki Roksande Ilinčić z zelo balenciagastimi zvončastimi rokavi videti kot kos torte, namesto da bi »subtilno izstopala iz množice«, pomeni le, da še nisem tam. Takšne moči nimata samo dober dizajn in razvpita etiketa, ampak tudi govorica in moda operandi, način, s katerimi blagovna znamka komunicira oziroma gradi svojo kognitivno mapo. Biti dober komunikator je več kot klepetati z javnostmi ali biti aktiven v socialnih omrežjih, pomeni imeti nezmotljiv občutek, kakšno modo ustvarjaš, vselej isto, a vedno drugačno. 

PST: Besedilo sem napisala za revijo Krila, ki je izšla ob zaključni reviji NTF Oddelka tekstilij in oblačil 2012 in jo dobite priloženo tokratni številki Elle.

Wednesday, 25 April 2012

here's rocco


It felt like Slovenian fashion forgot all about the girl, enviously young, long-legged, with nothing to do but stop traffic with her adorable assemble. Yes, spoiled and fun, we are talking about fashion, but still very well behaved. Ivan Rocco, part of the Young@Squat collective, brought her back, even better, invented her. That is probably why his FW12 collection got so much attention, everyone wanted to take that girl out, it's been long overdue. What attracted me was the combination of Brazilian hippy vibe that is quite summery, and the puffy jacket, reminiscent of a typical look of everyone growing up in Yugoslavia. How hot and how cold of her. Can't wait to see this Ivan Rocco girl growing up (see the jackets on the runway and, yes, on girls, here and here). 

Če ti je ime Ivan Rocco, najbrž moraš početi kaj takšnega, zaradi česar bodo ljudje izgovarjali tvoje ime z občudovanjem. Dobro bi ga bilo videti na etiketi. V Squatu smo njegovo retro kolekcijo z obešalnikov jemale kar štiri naenkrat, bundic z lakastimi ovratniki pač ne srečaš kar tako.

Se nadaljuje ...

Sunday, 22 April 2012

the right time for next season

After Philips fashion week FW12 I had to do a fashion detox, make two giant steps back and rethink all that we have seen strolling down the catwalk. The blinding lights and the loud music can sometimes make things a) appear much more covetable than they really are or b) less powerful because they lack that first impression presence. Some things are made for showing (off) others for wearing (in). That is why I accepted the invitation to see some of the pieces designed by Natasa Persuh and Zoran Garevski up close. Shown on the first three photos are coats by Natasa Persuh, the strongest element in the collection. 'I could see you in that blue one,' said R* (click here to see it on the runway) and how right he was, it is soft and strict at the same time, much like the first impression I wanna give to people. It is just the right kind of blue that doesn't make you look pale in winter and gives a bit of warmth to the complexion. The second one (on the runway) is actually a black jacket and a blue coat in one, a perfect manly piece that you can throw over anything and look put together and sober (even over a one-too-many cocktail dress). The collection, surprisingly, didn't make a statement out of recycled fur but a tool. The subtle patchwork was repeated on the dresses. Persuh has already played with the idea of fur for the Maison Margiela exhibition but this time made it real. On the runway the black patent leather belt looked like a strip of industrial tape, very MMM like. And than there is the Zoran Garevski man's double-breasted jacket that I lovingly call The Croco, which looks great on a tomboy. I was surprised how raw it looks in person, not an uptight jacket at all, it would even survive a bus ride. On Friday night I was already missing the blue coat in my wardrobe.

Kako super, da lahko pri nas smuknem v sample size številko, no, ja, vsaj pri jaknah in plaščih (sem poskusila tudi pri londonskih, a je bila edina stvar, ki sem jo spravila nase, brezrokavnik). Po vsem trudu, ki so ga oblikovalci vložili v svoje delo, je prav, da ga spoznamo še na obešalniku, ga pobožamo, položimo na ramena, vržemo na roko, se raznežimo ob podlogi in spregledanem detajlu. Takole razstavljeni, brez teles, ki bi jih podpirala, so na nek čuden način še bolj privlačni: lepi in prazni. Po enkratni aferi z žarometi ne smejo biti že has-beens, zvezdniško življenje se za njih šele začenja.

Se nadaljuje ...

Sunday, 1 April 2012

spring-summer 1998 to fall-winter 2012





VODEB SS '98, clothes: Uroš Belantič for Vodeb, photographer: Tomaž Gregorič, model: Romana Lilič
Tomorrow starts the Ljubljana FW12 fashion week and we are kicking it off with a round table hosted by me about Slovenian fashion heritage and its influences. I believe that some great things were happening in Slovenian fashion just a few years ago (in fashion terms: ages ago) from collaborations to even a simple thing like a great lookbook. So, yeah, maybe we will be a bit nostalgic but all in the name of putting fall winter 2012 in perspective.

Brskanje po arhivih je pri nas nemogoča naloga, meni pa modni spomin ne seže nazaj do 1998, sicer vem, da sem takrat nosila pižamo, vendar nimam pojma, kaj se je dogajalo v bolj posvečenih krogih. Zakaj ne morem pogooglati kolekcije Zorana Garevskega s konca devetdesetih? Zato sem skenirala nekaj 'vintidž' katalogov, ki jih bomo zavrteli na okrogli mizi. Vabljeni torej, da iz (maminih?) omar stauhate best of devetdesetih, narejenih v Sloveniji, in jutri ob 17h pridete v Kino Šiška. O modni dediščini in slovenskem modnem oblikovanju kot blagovni znamki se bom pogovarjala z Marto Vodeb, Natašo Peršuh, Sanjo Grcić, Uršo Drofenik, Olgo Košico, Zoranom Garevskim, Valterjem Kobalom (Oktober) in Mariel Reed (Not Just A Label). Veliko vprašanje: ali bomo vsi oblečeni v črno?

PST: Tale lookbook Vodeb je bil posnet v piceriji Triglav, restavraciji Sole in Resljevem Hramu. Moda je v pajzlih vselej videti dobro.

Tuesday, 13 March 2012

the thing things

photo by Matevž Paternoster
Who doesn't like to take a pick in other people's wardrobe or medicine cabinets or bags? This photo is part of a feature I did for ELLE magazine with the photographer Matevž Paternoster. What I find so great about this photo is that one would expect I picked up this pieces – a Versace for H&M bomber, Linda Farrow sunglasses and Lara Bohinc bag – in a wardrobe of a teenager but actually they were handpicked by a much older, very eclectic publisher.

Ne maram se iti stilistke, pojma nimam o oblačenju drugih ljudi in mrzim prenašati vrečke, toda iti se modno tihožitje  živožitje me je od vedno mikalo, je kot 3D kolažkanje. Ko sem iskala nekoga z omaro, vredno brskanja, sem se spomnila, da mi je U* enkrat omenila razsežnosti garderobe Edvine Novak. Potem sem si vzela dva popoldneva, naštudirala prostore, z obešalniki drsela sem ter tja in, voilà (mimogrede, lep detajl se mi je zdel Moschino obešalnik, na katerem obvisi Versače za hm, ha). Več v novi številki ELLE.

Saturday, 10 March 2012

heart in a box




Nicolas Ghesquière took something average and normal like winter and made it into a heroine from a Kubrick movie, a character that is already nostalgic about the future. Because let's face it, the future never comes, we only dream about it, its shiny surfaces, flickering lights, plastic food and sex without organs. Boxy silhouettes at Balenciaga are at the same time hard and emotional, very feminine and restricted like a spacesuit. Maybe the earrings are the only reminder that the girls are not (yet) robots. And the Glass Candy song Warm in the Winter is so cheeky and beautifully empty like a big ball of space.

V moji omari se množijo le jakne, j***š čevlje, če seveda niso takšni kot tile od Balenciage. Zadovoljno se stiskajo Dries Van Notnova, nova Balenciagina, ljuba Acne, v zadnji sekundi izbrana Marni/h&m, vse po vrsti so škatlaste, skorajda nerodne, če ne bi bile tako voljne, pripravljene, da telesu ukradejo obliko in mu vsilijo novo. Zima 2012 bo kot iz škatlice: boksasti zgornji deli se bodo družili z bingljajočimi uhani kot pri poletni Pradi, le da manj naprej v preteklost in bolj nazaj v prihodnost. Ker pa je prihodnost zdaj, se nameravam zboksati že to pomlad.

Saturday, 3 March 2012

a piece of london






Topshop venue, Ms. Columbine, backstage at Acne, the not-mine invitation to Acne show, Ms. Style Bubble, Mrs. Hilary Alexander after the Paul Smith show, that Christopher Kane jacket on the metro. This are just a few of my crappy iPhone captures of the London fashion week, where I fell in and out of love for fashion in a matter of hours. I guess that what happens if you are surrounded by fashion people all the time, sometimes I am glad to live far away from it all.

Fashionably late puščam nekaj trenutkov iz Londona, ki je skoparil z vabili, bil nadvse radodaren s slabim vremenom in dekleti, pripravljenimi za poziranje. Če bi živela v Londonu, bi bila moja garderoba strašno dolgočasna, črna in siva, še vedno si namreč nisem opomogla od barvnih pljuskov. Pravzaprav komaj čakam, da nas moda neha farbat in spet postane črno črna.