Monday, 28 November 2011

nowhere shoes

by fixinchevys for DCMU
You know when you really like the shoes but can't bring yourself to wear them outside the house? Cause they are of such delicate colour, so buttersoft and suede, need I say more? But I will wear them in the spring, promise, with the jacket and shorts from the Cos collection. Margiela and Cos go well together.

Čevlji na špic, ha? Velika vrnitev, tako velika celo, da so se manolke znova znašle na wishlistah. In Carrie s prijateljicami se obrača v grobu na videokasetah. Moji prsti se kremžijo, a Margiela dela udobne špičke, brez učinka sardel v konzervi. Pojma nimam, kaj je mišljeno s tem, da je navdušenje, ko pride naokrog sezona, ki si jo že enkrat dal skozi, manjše. Šele sedaj sem dovolj zrela za reprizo devetdesetih. Hit me, baby, one more time.

Wednesday, 23 November 2011

what's that jacket, margiela?



by fixinchevys for DCMU 
Ljubljana is called White Ljubljana, well tomorrow it's gonna get a whole lot whiter with the opening of the special Maison Martin Margiela exhibition (that was my first question for the people that are bringing it into town: did you have to repaint the gallery into all white?). My jacket from the fall '07 collection is so excited by the possibility to brush its xl shoulders with other members of the M family. But it is so cold I am rethinking about wearing it. It's interesting seeing how other people wear their Margiela, me, I always wear it unbuttoned and with turned up sleeves (naked wrists make the exaggerated proportions work).

To je zgodba o ramenih pa tudi o možu, ki ga ni in je povsod. V devetdesetih, ko nismo bili nikjer varni pred Jeanom Paulom Gaultierjem in njegovo črtasto mornarsko majico, supermodele pa so še babice poznale po imenu, je MMM na prvi pogled razvijal držo proti vsem. Ne le da ni podajal MTV kipcev, tudi modeli so bila, kako predrzno, dekleta z ulic, vseh velikosti in starosti. Poleg tega je ustrelil še tja, kamor si nihče ni upal niti nameriti, v ponos osemdesetih – podložena ramena, sestavni del tako imenovanih power suits, oblek, ki so iz navadnih ljudi delale ostre poslovneže. Skomigniti z rameni in iti naprej je bilo preprosto nemogoče, smo res vsa ta leta hodili v službo, zato da bomo nosili obleke z ozkimi rameni? Kastracija osemdesetih je samo začetek romance s tem obdobjem: ko so standard postala ozka ramena, jih je Margiela pričel napihovati in jih oklical za novo erogeno cono. V času, ko so vse oči uprte bodisi v zadnjice bodisi v prsi ali njihove substitute, to je torbice in čevlje, je toliko mamljiveje, če se obline zgodijo tudi kje drugje. Margiela ustvarja paralelna vesolja, v njih vsi sanjamo ali vsaj štejemo električne ovčke, smo tako iztrebljevalci kot replikanti, hommage Ridleyju Scottu, ki je v nabreklih Rachelinih ramenih videl popolni par. Kdo bi se lahko uprl garderobi za konec sveta? A zdi se, da tudi tega ne gre jemati preresno, spletna stran Maisona se odpre z opozorilom, ki spominja na stran v izdelavi, le da to ni, vsake toliko se na sredini prikaže vitrina, v kateri se na spremljavo lajne vrtijo pečene kure.

PST: Upam, da kdaj srečam tudi kak kos Margiele za Hermès.

Wednesday, 16 November 2011

whowhatwear

by fixinchevys for DCMU
I hate describing what I do for a living, it is the modern equivalent of the big bad 'who am I'. I am pretty sure I am not a blogger, which is something I've been called a lot in these past weeks. What I want to say is that I have tremendous respect for the real bloggers, it takes so much work and so much talent to do it right, to do it your way. I am also not a fashion journalist, I write for ELLE Slovenia since the launch almost seven years ago and yes, I write about fashion but mostly I explore the complex love affair between a woman and a piece of garment (okay, sometimes it is about a man and a shoe or a girl and her tiny breasts but you know what I mean). That is just my night job but I am very proud of it.

Moj plašč je lahko tudi ogrinjalo. Videti je kot kožuh plišastega medvedka, spredaj nima zapenjaja, ob straneh pa dve zadrgi, ki poskrbita za to, da lahko roke ob strani pokukajo ven - presenečenje! -, kar je ena mojih ljubših aktivnosti (t. j. ogrniti suknjič ali plašč čez rame, zelo Tito, vem). Je pa tudi moj prvi Alexander Wang kos, pred katerim sedaj trepeta vsa garderoba, lansko zimo ga je nosila Natasha Poly. Na fotografiji mu dela družbo nova vintidž Grošelj torbica, vsa gladka in lakasta.

Saturday, 12 November 2011

the young and the restless

Here is an interview I did with Mr. Stefan Siegel from Not Just a Label.
Sorry, I have to ask: what are you wearing? I imagine a great mash of designers whom we never heard of and can't even pronounce.
Hello, well guessed! It may well be hard to pronounce since we do cover such an international host of designers. Today I am wearing a Podsiadlo urban vest; perfect for the fact that at the moment London cant make up it's mind right now- either it's pouring with rain, or the sun is beaming, so a knit with ventilation seems to be a fair balance!

In fashion that is now so fast and hungry is name dropping a must if you want to be in the know?
I’m sure that it works that way for some people, and fashion certainly did rely on that once upon a time. But, to be honest we feel the fashion industry relies on antiquated systems and strategies, it is slow, it takes itself too seriously and therefore to stay on top you have to challenge the habits, you have to be willing to break the mould and re-invent yourself again and again and I hope that we can continue in this vain.

Who is now the next big thing just seconds from becoming mainstream?
We handpicked 6,000 of the best, pick any one of them! A tip would be our black sheep!

How do you do your talent hunting? And who are you proud to say was your discovery?
Well, we have a talent scouting team that dedicate their time to uncovering talent from around the globe, we cover all the graduate shows as well as scouting online, through blogs and magazines too. Damir Doma, Mary Katrantzou, Patrick Mohr were instrumental discoveries in the beginning for NJAL, but there have been too many to mention since then.

Right now NJAL represents designers from 91 countries – is there any local differences or has fashion became one big global fashion?
Fashion, like so many things is globalised for sure, but you do see very obvious trends emerging out of the specific schools. I think what’s interesting are the individual student interpretations of what their tutors seek.

Are there really so many good young fashion designers?
In an answer, Yes! Individuality has become a statement for luxury. The appetite and demand for alternative and sustainable production is predominant across sectors such as food, hospitality, lifestyle and fashion. Young designers recognise the responsibility in creating sustainable fashion and the importance of being an individual, talented young designers don't follow trends, they create them; so we will never be bored looking at their collections.

Which Slovenian designer is on top of your list?
We actually represent quite a few Slovenian designers. During my last visit I was impressed by Peter Movrin and Natasa Hrupic’s collections. Both will be designers representing Slovenia very well on an international basis.

How do non insiders find out about emerging talents, on Style Bubble?
Yes, Susie Bubble and Diane Pernet are amongst the very influential array of blogs out there uncovering a wealth of talent everyday. Of course NJAL prides itself on having the largest platform for emerging designers, and with new collections uploaded daily, we also give exposure to the best of the best through our front page, Black sheep and editorial sections. It is a good idea to check the site daily because we move like the fashion world does; fast!

What is the biggest breakthrough now for a young designer? Making a collection for Topshop?
Each will take their own path. I think the Internet gives fantastic opportunities and visibility to creative emerging talent. The Internet is by nature democratic; anyone can create a network and start communicating to a large audience, we will always do a feature on our best designers, and I think that exposure in this way can be all that’s necessary for designers to begin to get the praise they deserve and continue creating. Topshop is certainly not a big ambition if a designer wants to stay independent and create a luxury label.

Today it seams young designers get the attention of the press, after all there is a lot of magazines around, but being featured in an editorial is still not a guarantee to get a stockist. Is the biggest struggle today for the designers to get on a shop floor?
Yes unfortunately money makes the world go round, and sometimes making items that sell well (be it wearable or not) is the only way for young designers to have the financial backing required to fund their next collection, which is why we also offer our designers the opportunity to sell through us.

NJAL is doing a collaboration with MANGO that will give one designer an astonishing 300.000 EUR to develop the collection. Sounds great!
Yes, awards are often a necessity to secure some financial stability that can make all the difference. The “El-Botón” Mango Fashion Awards 2011 ranks among the financially most rewarding of these. Mango pays each finalist €18,000 and designers need only provide sketches to enter, which is fantastic.

For the end: how does the future of fashion look like from where you are sitting?
It is definitely time for a change, our concept is more about sharing the risk and making sure the design talents of tomorrow are being compensated. This is vital for the industry. We are convinced that, despite the ongoing financial crises and the implications for the economic climate, brands focusing on “authentic luxury” will continue to grow and prosper, resulting in one of the greatest creative opportunities in decades. We just need to continue on our mission!

Kdaj se bom brcnila v svoje gumenjake in odšla v London? Stefan mi je obljubil mini tour po NJAL, pogrešam A* pa tudi tiste veganske rezance s tartufi.

Tuesday, 8 November 2011

preview

Last week I went to Squat to be the first to see the SS12 collections and try on those fab Natasa Persuh shirts. I almost went for this golden stunner but of course in the end sticked to the blue one wich I have sworn to get on my twitter (I can't lie on twitter, right?). The great thing about the collars is that you can mix and mismatch them. The blue shirt with the creamy-golden collar looked very CdG. The sexy 'zebras' from Garevski remind me a little bit of Acne, so the Scandinavian-Slovenian affair looks very promising, we should do that more often. You know, interbreed. With tall Swedes.

Morali bi nas videti, kako Z*, N* in M* skupinsko poskušamo oversizane šilte.  Meni seveda niso hoteli na glavo (okej, zdaj veste, nimam sample size glave). Veste pa tudi, kdo bo DCMU napravil srajčico. Kmalu.

Thursday, 3 November 2011

no black, please

via Ekoas
Thank you Ekoas for snapping a photo of me on the first night of Slovenian Fashion Week. And now about the dress, it is from the fabulous Miu Miu spring-summer 2006 show. That show has done for a plain white t-shirt just as much as Jil Sander in 2011. I got it in Trieste in a size too big so I thought I should hide that fact with a fluffy H&M Trend sweater (let's just say Man Reppeler taught me well). On my feet are the Acne Cypress boots and in my lap the green CdG clutch.

Nisem bila razpoložena za nakupovanje, blame it on Wall Street, zato sem izbrskala vse najlepše, vse dobre-stare in premalokrat nase dane kose, se vprašala, kaj bi storila Taylor Tomasi (kaj neki, šla bi v Barneys ali pa se vsaj oborožila z gnezdom modnih dodatkov, med katerimi bi bil vsaj en malo sado-mazo), potem pa raje zagrabila vintidž lak za nohte, Chanel Platinum duo iz 2007. Jasno mi je bilo le eno: ni šans, da dam nase najlonke, gole noge so ja tako New York pozimi in kdo ne bi hotel biti tak sredi jeseni sredi Ljubljane?